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Devilish
The first time the classic English dish 'Devilled Kidneys' had its literary debut was in chapter 54 of William Makepeace Thackerary's 19th century masterpiece novel 'Vanity Fair'.
The author noted that it was a favourite in army officers' mess halls for breakfast.
As the twentieth century encroached, the dish was either forgotten or fell out of favour; or flavour.
Now Devilled Kidneys has made a big come-back.
The latest BBC 'celebrity' chef, Nick Nairn, has a big hit by re-introducing the culinary achievement to a nascent generation.
Nairn's recipe is as follows:
- 2 tbsp olive oil
-2 lambs' kidneys, chopped
-1 tbsp red wine (the cheaper the better)
-2 tbsp double cream ( or crème fraiche)
-1 tbsp fresh parsley, chopped
-In a baking pan, heat to 200 C/ 400 F
-Stir the ingredients well in a hot frying pan for two minutes
-Best served on toast
(Of course, this was not exactly the way things were done at the kitchens in Waterloo. But there is a strong resemblance).
Another 'celebrity' chef, recently appointed as the first British chief head chef at the Hotel Trianon Palace in Versailles ( an institution with an historic reputation similar to the Ritz in Paris) is soon to introduce this ancient English delicacy to his menu for rich French, North American and German and Polish and Russian gastronomes. (His slight variation is to add bacon and mushrooms).
Tom Jaine, one of the most respected food writers in Britain, and a former editor of 'The Good Food Guide', says: "Devilled Kidneys are nouvelle English cooking except that the recipe is rather old".
