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Paris Match
A warm welcome at the Gare du Nord
British hacks queue up to bash the French capital
This week, Eurostar trains destined for Paris will leave from London's beautiful St Pancras, described by some commentators as the world's finest railway station. The trains are likely to run straight into a typically French strike (more of which in another post), but the faster link between the cities has sparked a rash of articles about what awaits Londoners at the other end of the tracks - and not all of it flattering.
Rising crime in parts of Paris is given some prominence.
Yesterday, the Telegraph reported on how the Champs-Elysées is suffering a crimewave of "vice and drunkenness", with locals complaining about violent youths pouring onto the world-famous avenue at the weekend. French news reported this morning that violence against individuals in the 8th arrondisement (where the Champs-Elysées is situated) was up 8 percent last year; locals mutter that since Les Halles, the previous "hot destination" for suburban youths, has been flooded with police, the hoodlums have moved on to pastures new.
Also in the Telegraph is a report warning Brits that the Gare du Nord and the surrounding area are not places to hang around after dark. The riot earlier this year is mentioned, along with the threatening atmosphere generated by gangs of youths from the housing estates served by the Gare. In truth, though, the station is well-policed: Most of the "youths" hang around on the lower levels reserved for suburban RER trains and rarely emerge blinking into the light of the main platforms.
Anyway, it is hardly news that the Gare du Nord is a grim place: For years, guidebooks have warned that the station and the nearby Gare de l'Est are in grotty, miserable neighbourhoods. Most Parisians avoid the surrounding districts, and much of northern Paris in general. What's so unusual for a major European railway station to be in a dodgy area? Anyone familiar with London's King's Cross up to quite recently could feel right at home.
Despite our reservations, both stories are based in the real world. Which is more than can be said for Janine di Giovanni's experiences in The Times. Foreign correspondent di Giovanni and her journalist husband moved to Paris in 2004, and she claims that she's found it hard going ever since.
Her column is a dismaying litany of stand-offish French women, demanding French husbands, lecherous oyster salesmen and 700 quid shopping sprees in lingerie stores. It's more a parody of a certain idea of Paris life than anything approaching reality (at least for this long-term Paris resident).
Their first flat overlooked the Musée d'Orsay, the Seine and the Tuilerie Gardens. Tiring of this view, they moved to the swish 6th arrondisement, close to the Luxembourg Gardens - perhaps Paris's poshest neighbourhood.
Roman Abramovich would have trouble affording a flat beside the Jardin du Luxembourg, never mind one at rue de Rivoli / Concorde overlooking the Seine. EURSOC would love to know which newspapers pays its journalists Premiership salaries, and if they are looking for staff.
